How To Install A Pocket Door Easily

1. Frame The Rough Opening

In this step, you will need to construct a rough opening of a header and two studs. Let us assume your door is 80″ high; your construction has to have a minimum height of 84 1/2″. The rough opening must have a width that is two times the door plus one inch. If your door is 34″ full, the opportunity has to be 69″ wide. Square and plumb the header with the studs, making sure the header is level. Choose 2x4s for the header and the studs and use 2″ nails. Determine the clearance needed under the door and measure up from the finished floor 80 ¾” to 81 ½”, leaving 3/4 ”  to 11/2″ of space at the story. Mark each rough stud and drive 2″ nail in the center of the stud at the level of marks leaving 1/8″ protruding to rest.

A wood heater and a metal rack sandwiched between two nailing strips make the header. There are markings on the woods header for different door widths. You can remove the end bracket when you want to adjust the length of the pocket door header. At the height of your door, cut the wood header only.

Turn the header over and cut the metal track 13/8” shorter than the wood header. Put the end brackets back on the cut end of the header. Measure the door and add 1”- this is the length you will use to cut the nailing strips. Cut nailing strips on the side of the header at the proper marks. Repeat the process with the other side.

2. Attach The Split Jambs

The first split jamb is flush with the nail header. You can set the other split jamb halfway in the pocket of the wall. Snap two chalk lines on the floor, even with the side jambs. Drop the plumb bob flush with the nailer header and mark the level. Repeat this at halfway in the pocket of the wall.

Attach the bottom of the split jamb to the floor plate, starting with the split jamb by the nailer header. There are “fingers” protruding at the floor plate. They connect with slots on the split jamb, and you can slip them into the slots. Butt the split jamb on the nailer header and nail it into place. Install the second split jamb in this way. The split jambs should be plumb using your marks from the plumb bob or chalk line. Attach the floor plates to the floor.

3. Enclose The Frame

In this step, you will enclose the frame. Use drywall tape to seal the seams and cover the tape with a joint compound. Use a damp sponge to smoothen it and sand any imperfections when dry. The screws that you should use when attaching the drywall should not be too long. Protrusions in the wall pockets will damage the door. A temporary 21/8” board between the split jambs can provide you with a firm nailing surface.

Paint and repair any damages on the door before hanging it. If you used an old door, you should close the hole where the old doorknob used to be. Use a combination of sawdust and wood putty to fill in the gap. Refill any cracks, then sand smooth it. The pocket door will need a new opening for a door latch.

4. Mount The Pocket Door

The hangers should be inserted well, onto the rack, and their wheel position alternated for even distribution of the weight of the door. Attach the door plates 2″ from the top edge of the door, with the lock facing the same direction. Measuring up from the bottom of the door, fasten the bumper on its backside halfway up-40″ for a standard door.

The door plate has a slot for the pin of the hanger. Lift the door and push the pin into the door plate, then swivel the lock tab into place. Follow these steps for the other rod and door plate. If possible, have someone help you when mounting the pocket door.

Attach the finished jamb to the steel studs using screws. Install split headers and trim. Plumb both frames with the door; shim if needed. There should be a minimum clearance of 3/16″ between the jamb and the door. Attach the finished split header and then the trim.